Author Topic: Cutting Out A Bit Of Rust - General - Shogun/Pajero  (Read 4364 times)

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Offline Juls~X

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Cutting Out A Bit Of Rust - General - Shogun/Pajero
« on: December 12, 2007, 15:38:25 »
I think my Shogun's been mixing it with too many Land-Rovers lately as it seems to have caught a bad case of tin worm  ;D ;D

Seriously though it is one of the major problems that can occur on a Shogun:
On the rear off side chassis leg behind the rear wheel, an appearance of rust holes which are generally patched up with welded plates by garages, and such was the case with mine.

There are a couple  of problems with slapping a plate over a rust hole and welding it up:
1. You don't get to the cause of the problem - rust is invariably caused by dampness or muck on the inside so if you don't open it up and get the cause out you are just shifting the problem to another day.

2. two bits of metal welded one on top of another will cause rust to form in the gap between (not sure what it's called but it happens)

Ways around the problem at 2.:
I've used stainless steel plates in the past to try and solve this
Another  is to bend the edges of the receiving material in so the the plate only makes contact on it's outside edges
By far the best way is to cut in and weld - cutting the plate to fit into the hole and then weld up

So bearing that in mind lets have a look at the problem I was up against:

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So with the amount of plates on it and the severe cracking there was only one cure - angle grinder please ;D

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The remains of the original chassis, half full of mud - note the rust growing between the plate and the chassis on the right

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The next job was to cut a scarf on the chassis to take the new piece - this strengthens the joint quite a lot and is well worth doing. The actual piece I was putting in I had sourced from a LWB Shogun giving me extra length to play with (the essential bends and the spring hanger bracket hole pitch are the same, so no problem there)

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Now we come to the back by the rear cross member cutting right back in order to fix on the cross member itself except:
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Yet another plan foiled begging the question patch or new? In the end it was new (new tube costing £10 - well worth it)

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So let's get welding then ;D

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Then it was a case of welding everything else in:

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With a coat of hammerite used as undercoat followed by undershield:

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Tank cross member showing the raised mounting points - the block on the left is an old mount moved forward to take the brake compensator

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So now I have a new piece of chassis and rear cross member plus in the repair I've raised the fuel tank around 4" (100mm to us youngsters ;D )


All I have to do now is clean hammerite and undershield the rest of the chassis - no rest for the wicked ehh? ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
« Last Edit: March 07, 2012, 20:04:18 by Juls~X »
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1988 2.5td manual Shogun SWB
1994 2.8tdi auto Pajero LWB

Offline 4x4bigstu

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Re: Cutting Out A Bit Of Rust - General - Shogun/Pajero
« Reply #1 on: December 24, 2007, 20:36:55 »
looing good, nice to see a proper job done rather than a patch up,

Has done wonders for the vehicle long term

I did something like that on the brava pickup at work, 4 years later still no welding to do on the chassis